The New Institute and the TextielMuseum show three mini collections of innovative, sustainable woollen garments at Highlights TextielLab: Wool Diaries at the Tilburg museum. The clothes are the result of experiments by young fashion designers Borre Akkersdijk, Oda Pausma and Pauline van Dongen at the museum's TextielLab. The Wool Diaries project is made possible in part by The Woolmark Company.
Pauline van Dongen works with wool in the TextielLab. Photo: renevanderhulst.
The designers began working at the TextielLab in February, individually weaving and knitting new woollen fabrics. Back at their own ateliers, they turned these into mini collections of two or three garments each.
The TextielMuseum will exhibit the clothes through Sunday 29 September. An accompanying film will take viewers through the design process, while sketches, samples and documents will reveal the designers' respective ways of working.
All three designers are known for innovative, boundary-pushing work. The selection criteria stipulated they had to be recent graduates and have produced at least three collections. The assignment challenged them to work outside their usual frames of reference with the aim of bringing about innovative, sustainable wool designs.
Borre Akkersdijk, a Design Academy Eindhoven graduate and 2012 Mini Young Designer Award winner, works under the brand name ByBorre, cooperating closely with a graphic designer and using longstanding techniques in fresh ways. Pauline van Dongen, a graduate of ArtEZ Institute of the Arts and Fashion Institute Arnhem, is known for her sculptural clothing, which marries high technology with traditional techniques and craftsmanship. Oda Pausma, who studied at AMFI Amsterdam Fashion Institute and the Fashion Institute Arnhem and took part in the prestigious Hyères fashion and photography festival in 2011, creates collections characterised by a flowing, feminine, restrained style.
Wool Diaries engages with three themes important to today's fashion industry: textile innovation, the value of fashion and its heritage, and sustainability. With this design assignment, Premsela and the TextielMuseum seek to emphasise the importance of experimentation, historical research, and the innovative use of wool and related techniques.